Field notes from the city

Stories & guides
from Banaras.

The river, the lanes, the food, and a few things to know before you arrive.

Festival guide

Dev Deepawali in Banaras: planning your visit

Make time for the city’s festival of light, with a practical plan for the riverfront and a home to return to.

First visit · 8 minute read

A flexible way to experience the riverfront, Kashi Vishwanath, old-city lanes and a quieter morning without turning every hour into a checklist.

Where to stay · 6 minute read

Compare the atmosphere around Assi, Dashashwamedh and the quieter residential pockets, then match your base to the trip you want.

Ghat guide · 7 minute read

How to explore the riverfront respectfully, what changes through the day, and how to make space for the moments between the landmarks.

When to go · 7 minute read

Compare seasons, crowds, river conditions, festival dates and what to pack for each time of year.

Temple planning · 8 minute read

Plan a respectful visit with practical advice on routes, queues, security, dress and current guidance.

Local food · 7 minute read

Explore Banarasi breakfasts, chaat, lassi and sweets with straightforward food-safety tips.

Family travel · 7 minute read

Make a family trip easier with advice on pacing, transport, food, rooms, temples and the ghats.

Responsible travel · 7 minute read

Make better travel photographs while protecting privacy and respecting sacred and private moments.

Short breaks · 6 minute read

A flexible weekend plan for sunrise ghats, temples, food, markets and a slower departure.